On the paths of the Coastal Swedes
Strike out on a journey through the history and cultural heritage of Estonia’s Coastal Swedes, whose lives were marked by the rhythm of the waves.
A history that goes back hundreds of years
Estonia’s Coastal Swedes called themselves the Aibofolk or "island people." Their language, culture, and traditions revolved around seafaring, farming, and shipbuilding, and have been part of Western Estonia's history since the 13th century.
The Coastal Swedes were a thriving community in Estonia until the outbreak of World War II. Since then, their cultural heritage has been preserved mostly in place names, folklore, and museums.
Today, their story is celebrated at the Rannarootsi Museum in Haapsalu and in historic villages throughout the region. Heritage-themed events, especially when their descendants return to visit from Sweden and elsewhere overseas, help keep their culture alive and share it with visitors. The unique cultural heritage of the Coastal Swedes is valued as part of Estonia’s own cultural heritage.
What to expect along the way:
- Highlights: Rannarootsi Museum, Nõva Bakery and its special homemade cardamom buns and bread, Noarootsi Church, St. Olaf’s Church and cemetery on Vormsi, and the Vormsi Farm Museum
- Distance: If you visit all the places mentioned, you will cover around 184 km. This map provides a detailed view of the route.
- Duration: Plan to spend at least two days and one night exploring the region.
- Best time to visit: All year round, although some sights may be closed during the low season
- How to get here: It is easiest to come by car. You can get to Vormsi by car ferry from Rohuküla. If you don't take a car to the island, you can get around by walking or cycling.
- Suggested starting point: Rannarootsi Museum, Haapsalu
Rannarootsi Museum
The gateway to Coastal Swede heritage
Start the morning of your first day in Haapsalu, where time moves at its own pace and history greets you on every street corner.
Pop into the Rannarootsi Museum, where centuries of Coastal Swede history are brought together in one exhibition. On the wall of the museum hangs a tapestry of images embroidered by Coastal Swedish women, who have preserved their memories with their needlework skills. If the museum happens to be closed, a copy of the tapestry outside tells the same story.
The museum also explains the origins of the region’s blue, black, and yellow flag, whose fate is closely linked to that of its population. And if you’re lucky, the deep, resonant sound of the talharpa, a unique instrument from the island of Vormsi, will fill the museum’s rooms, bringing the memories of Estonia's coastal people to life with music.
Leave Haapsalu around lunchtime – Noarootsi awaits!
Photo author: Ivika Uusmaa
Noarootsi
Flavours, legends, and seaside villages
Make Noarootsi Church your first stop in this area. Its white, 13th-century walls commemorate a visit by King Carl XVI Gustaf of Sweden, which saw the community reunited after a long separation. The renovated parsonage next door tells of a time when the Coastal Swedes maintained their roots, and the house of God was at the center of their lives.
Your next port of call is the Rooslepa Chapel and cemetery, a quiet place where crosses with Swedish names remind us of times long past. Look out for the whale-shaped weathervane on the chapel’s tower, and listen closely if you arrive at noon – bells will chime and time, for a moment, will stand still.
Roslep Brewery is worth a stop. Its craft beers bear the Swedish names of old coastal villages, bringing to life the map of Noarootsi on the labels of the bottles. In summer, grab a seat on the forest bar terrace, or in winter, soak up the warmth of a crackling fire as snow blankets the world outside.
Nõva Bakery welcomes you to the village of Nõva with its irresistible smell of freshly baked bread. The woman in charge, Merike, will be happy to share the stories of local delicacies such as Riguldi cardamom buns and artisan bread, which are just the things to give you the energy to continue on your journey.
End the day with an overnight stay in Noarootsi itself, or head back to Haapsalu, where you can find romantic accommodation in old wooden houses or cozy spa hotels.
Photo author: Katri Sander, Nõva Bakery
Vormsi Island
A day of heritage and peace
Your second day takes you across the sea to the island of Vormsi, where time passes at its own pace, and the heritage of Estonia's Coastal Swedes can be seen and felt everywhere. It is worth hiring a bike on the island to explore its nature and cultural heritage at your leisure.
With an area of 93 square kilometers, Vormsi is the fourth-largest island in Estonia. Its name derives from either the German word "worms" or the Swedish "ormsö", both of which mean "worm island." Vormsi is a perfect holiday destination for anyone seeking the quiet of nature and a touch of local history.
In addition to the attractions linked to the Coastal Swedes, take time to enjoy the Vormsi Landscape Conservation Area and the island’s hiking trails. Rumpo Peninsula, with sea views on both sides, and the birdlife of Hullo Bay are internationally renowned among birdwatchers and ornithologists.
Regular ferries to Vormsi depart from the port of Rohuküla in Haapsalu and arrive at the port of Sviby. They accommodate cars, but you can also cross on foot or by bike, and there are bikes for hire on the island as well.
Vormsi is ideal for day trips, but during the summer season, there are plenty of places to eat and spend the night, meaning you can extend your stay for as long as you like.
Photo author: Priidu Saart
Photo author: Priidu Saart
Vormsi Farm Museum in the village of Sviby tells the story of what island life was like before World War II, when around 2,400 Swedes (and only a few hundred Estonians) lived here. Farmhouses have been restored according to old photographs, and the memories of those who fled bring to life their lost way of life.
The towerless silhouette of St. Olaf’s Church is at the very heart of the island. The church in Vormsi has no bell tower, but the church bell is located under the eaves. Next to the church is Vormsi Cemetery, where you can find about 300 ring- or sun-shaped crosses, the most that can be found anywhere in the world.
Vormsi’s nature trails await hikers. The Rumpo hiking trail leads to the tip of the peninsula of the same name, offering views of the bays on both sides. It is also a habitat for rare mosses. The Hullo-Prästviigi hiking trail leads to a coastal lake which is becoming overgrown, while Hullo Bay is a nesting and stopover site for birds.
Before heading off, take a look at Saxby Lighthouse, whose white silhouette and beacon have been guiding seafarers for centuries. In 1990, St. Olaf’s Church was re-consecrated, and a ship sailing under the Swedish flag, which had arrived on a special voyage, cast anchor in Saxby Bay. Without visas, leaving their passports on the ship, the Vormsi Swedes who had lived in exile were able to set foot on the island for a short while – bringing the island’s old spirit back to life.
Vormsi offers tranquillity, heritage, and untouched nature, making it ideal for a day trip or a relaxed longer stay.
Exploring the paths of the Coastal Swedes is a sustainable travel choice:
- It celebrates and passes on both cultural and historical heritage.
- It takes you out of the city and off the highways onto less-travelled byways.
- The region can be visited all year round, easing the burden on the environment.
- Restaurants take seasonality into account, using local ingredients wherever possible.
- Visitors to West Estonia can support businesses in sparsely populated areas.
Ready to hit the road?
Get planning, take things at your own pace, and soak up vibrant cultural heritage along the paths of the Coastal Swedes!
Last updated
12.09.2025